If that was not enough, we have one more thing to report about LA. A double-blind study using a 2.5% LA gel for 4 weeks found a 25% reduction in the size of microcomedones, the tiny blocked pores that can later lead to acne.
#MAC STROBE CREAM HYDRATANT LUMINEUX รีวิว SKIN#
So LA-deficiency in the skin seems to be connected not only to an impaired skin barrier but also to acne and smearing LA all over your face might help with your problem skin. Research shows that problem skin has lower levels of linoleic acid (and higher levels of oleic acid) than normal skin.
LA is not only important for dry, barrier damaged skin types but also for acne-prone skin. LA deficiency leads to an impaired more permeable skin barrier and the topical application of LA-rich sunflower oil can fix this issue rapidly (while oleic-rich olive oil did not have the same barrier repairing effect). Knowing this, it will not come as a surprise that Linoleic acid has a central role in the structure and function of stratum corneum permeability, aka healthy skin barrier. It is the most abundant fatty acid in the epidermis and it serves as a structural precursor for important skin lipids called ceramides. We especially recommend it if you are after skin brightening as this seems to be the strongest point of MAP.Īs for linoleic acid and the skin, LA is a really important little guy found naturally in our skin. We have better news about the other two things: in-vitro data shows that MAP can boost collagen synthesis similar to AA (though in the case of AA it's proven in-vivo) and even better, MAP is proven to work as a skin brightener in-vivo (on real people).īottom line: when it comes to vitamin C derivatives, MAP is definitely an option. Regarding the three magic abilities of pure vitamin C (antioxidant, collagen booster, skin brightener), there is no published data about MAP's antioxidant or photoprotection capabilities. Even if it does, we don't know how good the conversion rate is (but to be fair the same is true for all other derivatives). The good news is that in-vitro data shows that MAP does convert, but the bad news is we do not really know if the same is true on real, living human skin. Moreover, derivatives not only have to be absorbed into the skin, they also have to be converted into pure AA. What is not so good is that, as the great review study about vitamin C derivatives in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology writes, MAP is "at very best, poorly absorbed in comparison to AA." MAP does solve the stability problem: it's stable up to pH 7, so far so good. On balance, the point is this: in contrast to real plant oils, wax esters were designed by Mother Nature to stay on the surface and form a protective, moisturizing barrier and jojoba oil being a wax ester is uniquely excellent at doing that. Third, jojoba oil moisturizes the skin through a unique dual action: on the one hand, it mixes with sebum and forms a thin, non-greasy, semi-occlusive layer on the other hand, it absorbs into the skin through pores and hair follicles then diffuses into the intercellular spaces of the outer layer of the skin to make it soft and supple. has this not fully proven theory that thanks to this, jojoba might be able to "trick" the skin into thinking it has already produced enough sebum, so it might have "skin balancing" properties for oily skin. Second, jojoba oil is the most similar to human sebum (both being wax esters), and the two are completely miscible. If you have some pure jojoba oil at home, you should be fine using it for years.
(Many plant oils tend to go off pretty quickly). Even if you heat it to 370 C (698 F) for 96 hours, it does not budge. So being a wax ester results in a couple of unique properties: First, jojoba oil is extremely stable. 25-30% of human sebum is also wax esters to give us people environmental protection. Wax esters are on the outer surface of several plant leaves to give them environmental protection. Chemically, a wax ester is a fatty acid + a fatty alcohol, one long molecule. Mother Nature also created wax esters but for a totally different purpose.
Mother Nature created triglycerides to be easily hydrolyzed (be broken down to a glycerin + 3 fatty acid molecules) and oxidized (the fatty acid is broken down into small parts) - this happens basically when we eat fats or oils and our body generates energy from it. The fatty acids attached to the glycerin vary and thus we have many kinds of oils, but they are all triglycerides. So what the heck is a wax ester and why is that important anyway? Well, to understand what a wax ester is, you first have to know that oils are chemically triglycerides: one glycerin + three fatty acids attached to it. Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf ExtractĪcrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
0 kommentar(er)
